Isawa

Behind the old-fashioned storefront lined with traditional Japanese sweets lies a dining area where visitors can sit down for a full meal. Situated in Minami-Oizumi, Nerima Ward, close to Hoya Station, Isawa (いさわ) blends the quiet nostalgia of a neighborhood canteen with a traditional sweet shop counter.

Around midday, the tables fill with patrons ordering hearty, unpretentious teishoku set meals seasoned boldly enough to keep you reaching for more rice. Selections range from stir-fried meat mains like stamina set meals and ginger pork to complete trays flanked by deeply simmered nimono, ingredient-rich miso soup, and pickles fragrant with yuzu. The kitchen also turns out lighter,町中華 (neighborhood Chinese diner) staples, including classic ramen in a gentle, comforting broth and aromatic gyoza dumplings.

After a satisfying set meal, picking out confections to take home is another highlight of the visit. The shopfront showcases rustic, comforting favorites, including silky mallet-pounded mochi, chewy sekihan (steamed red bean rice), fluffy dorayaki, and apple pies. Payment is cash only, so keep some coins or thousand-yen notes handy when dropping by to enjoy this slice of warm, Showa-era hospitality.